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2009/10/18

One Night in Bangkok.

我是以严防死守的禁戒状态空降到曼谷的。行前Google以下曼谷的游记,就不难发现海量的关于当地埋伏于靠山路、大皇宫一代的各方骗子,招数五花八门;曼谷的出租车司机也以不打表、绕远路而享誉全球;长途汽车行李被盗事件,蜚声国际;然后又是排山倒海的大规模游行示威,一时间好不热闹。就这样,这些信息对人的影响是潜移默化的。于是我带着各方总结出的应对骗术的功略,带着对这个国家的种种先入为主的印象开始了这此旅行。

“什么?你在曼谷住的是宿舍?”知道的人大都会吃惊地反问一句。以曼谷的住宿价格和海量的GH(guest houses), 住宿舍确实有点亏。但当时的想法很单纯,住宿舍容易交朋友。

机场大巴上根本听不清楚司机报的站名,乘客越来越少,最后一名瑞典人下车之后除了我之外就只剩一人。(看来靠山路到底还是背包客的根据地,部分游客都跑到那里去了。)和这位 来自芝加哥的M后来成为了朋友,坐上同一辆大巴,定的同一间GH, 到了以后分到了一件房的上下铺。What are the odds? 当然旅行中的小概率事件自然不及其数,或者更恰当地说生活本来就是如此,只不过现代人在自己故有的生活圈子呆久了,就麻木了。

一切整理好已经是晚上10:30, M干从泰国南部回来,明天回美国,打算趁最后一晚在曼谷买些纪念品回家。我当然乐意奉陪啦,毕竟当时也没有意识到曼谷夜生活有多么光怪陆离。

沿着Silom 路走很快就是路过那条著名的“圈子”,从远处望去好不灯火闪烁,人声鼎沸,热闹非凡。随着越来越靠近那个区域,开始不断有突突车司机向我们靠拢,“Sir, sex show, sex show.” 快速躲闪过去,发现只是更深入了虎穴。路边站着的都会拿着照片向路人推销各种“秀”,也有的对人动手动脚,连拉带拽,想劝你到他家位于的小巷子里酒吧或massage。后来回来时走另一条路,谁知道抬头向对面望去,却见“Boy Street”招牌赫然的挂得老高…

把包挂在前面,双手随时提防着裤兜里的手机和钱包,在好一阵比肩继踵之后,终于突出重围,顿时觉得呼吸到了久违的新鲜空气。“You see this is Bangkok at night, really crazy.” M 总结说。

出了Silom,很快又恢复了正常,一切仿佛什么都没有发生过,只剩下路边的小吃摊在收拾残局。M闹着要尝尝烤蜘蛛、蜈蚣,服了…

Lanpini Park 旁就是曼谷很有名的正规夜市,更之前混乱形成鲜明对比。M对于亚洲的什么都感觉新鲜,开始血拼。佛像,传统T恤,披肩,当然最后还有压轴的仿真“劳力士” 和“LV”。发现他买的所有东西都是给别人的 – 父母、兄弟姐妹、亲戚、朋友,直到走出市场他才想起,“Wait,I forgot to buy something for myself!” 然后又赶回去买了一个小型木雕Buddha. 不禁问自己,要是我来买东西,很可能最先都是给自己买呢…这就是差距。

M也深谙亚洲的讲价艺术,杀价绝对首先对半砍,或者只出三分之一,让卖家知道你对市场不是一无所知;然后双方继续在计算器上你来我往,最后的战利品就是M以700泰买了寒假3500泰的“劳力士” ( 汇率 1:5)。虽然是仿品(没有贴brand),但是做工(至少表面上的)确是相当精细,买不起真的,对着仿品也可以小小满足一下吧。毕竟手表之于男人就如?(候补答案:有待了解)之于女人。

M还有一个杀手锏就是告诉店主“I’m just back from India.” 结果真是屡试不爽啊!难道印度人都很会讲价?或者从印度旅游回来都会练就一身绝技?

因为边走边聊,我们一直到临晨一点才走回GH。M原来趁着大学毕业来gap year, 旅行的一年,再回芝加哥继续学医。他问我为什么他很少见过中国的背包客一个人出来旅游;一时间我也不知道怎么回答,答案之一是他确实运气差,答案二的解释就五花八门了,签证、经济、社会压力、独立性、观念,原因有太多太多。难道我不愿意也来个gap year 啊?但是太多的因素stand in the way… 当然这点M是不会懂的, 他竟然还问“Why don’t you travel to the US?” “It’s obviously not a country that welcomes Chinese backpackers.” 我一时也火大。他也许永远也不知道办个北半球国家的“个人旅游签证”对于中国人有多难。

抛开这些,那天仍然是很奇妙的一次经历,特别是想到当天上午还呆在成都的家里,第二天临晨竟然在陌生的曼谷街头陪一个陌生人采购,对比如此强烈,以至于那天晚上一时难以入眠。

 

P.S. 现在回想起来,寒假的泰国行就像是一次"启蒙",选择这里作为旅行的起点算是误打误撞撞对了。

寒假出行之前在成都的折扣书市买到了泰国的LP(Lonely Planet),老板娘拍板向我保证去泰国绝对没有任何担心的。“你看我吧,英文完全不会,都去了三次泰国了,只有第一次是跟团,其他全部自己走。”“三次啊?”狐疑之中环顾四周,她的店铺摊位也不算太大,只好感叹老百姓的日子越过越好了...

一转眼已经坐在了飞机上,一聊才发现身边坐了两位资深的成都老驴夫妇。在我印象中四川人背包作环球旅游的确是不多,他俩算难得的一对吧~ 多年的自助旅行,他们也总结了一些经验,至今我仍然清楚记得。“我们的环球旅行就是从泰国开始的。那里就是背包客的练兵厂。” “一开始你可能觉得钱是旅行的关键,到后来你才会发现你最缺的是时间和精力。”“算算人有好多(多少)时间是用来工作学习,又有好多(多少)时间是真正你自己的?” “节约时间就是为了用省下的时间做更多的工作?”。。。


2009/2/20

Crazy Night in Bangkok

Without a single baht, I wandering in the Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok, On my small notebook, it wrote things I must do in the first place: to withdraw money from ATMs, to buy a local SIM card and call my parents, to get the map of Bangkok and finally to take the airport bus to the guest house. I had prepared myself to encounter travel agents who wanted to get me into an expensive taxi; yet luckily there was few. With only five passengers, the almost empty airport bus started its way into the downtown of Bangkok and my journey finally began.

 

      Surreal as it was, I found myself in Thailand. Having considered to travel overland from China to Laos, Cambodia and then Thailand, I gave up the plan at the last minute, convincing myself that I could hardly make it on my own. One thing I was certain was that I felt I had to travel to other places or I would regret one way or another. Thus, Thailand became my only travel destination simply because of its highly developed tourism and the welcoming attitude towards tourists.

 

       Uncertainly haunted my heart the moment I boarded the bus. The freezing air-condition cooled down my passion and my nuts seemed to slip away with the fading day light and the retreating scenery outside the window. The night fell and artificial lights lighted up the whole city, dust in the air covered while the active night life highlighted. Nonetheless, none of them cheered me up, since I could barely understand the Thai taxi driver’s English accent and I had no idea where I was and how much more time it should take to arrive. Navigating between noisy and busy streets, two more people got off the bus, the remaining three all backpackers. That was when talking was first heard on the bus and where I met Manan from Chicago. I was just arriving in Thailand and he was actually at the end of his five-month trip. Further, we booked the same guest house near silom Road and we ended up living in the same 8-person dorm, me the upper bunk, he the bottom one.

 

       All the uncertainty and fear was all shattered up in a moment. After settling down, Manan asked whether I would like to go to the Lumpini night market with him to buy gifts for his friends and I replied with a delighted yes. Thus, I ended up walking at night about five blocks to the night market with a friend I just met. We were walking through a seemingly normal busy street, when suddenly it took off its mask and revealed its true nature. Some men standing besides turned out to be pander or pimp, trying to get us into certain sex shows; others would just show up in front of you, with pictures of girls; even one Tut-Tut driver wanted to take us to watch a sex show. Night life in Bangkok was really crazy and you never know what was really going on underneath. 

 
        I don’t how many night markets I have been to, but the bargaining experience in Bangkok is among the crazies. The reason is simple: we were foreigners in Thailand, who were supposed to have much money. Due to the language problem, people in many cases bargained over calculator, one offering the original price, the other arguing back. My new friend seemed to grasp the art of bargaining and a diversity of bargaining skills: playing hard to get, pretending to be from India and skills to get away when the price seemed unsatisfactory. Fake but well-made goods were also sold openly, watches imitating the mode of Casio, Rolex or handbag resembling LV, etc. We managed to bargain over a fake “Rolex” from 4500 baht to only 1300 baht, realizing that the price was not paid for the fake brand but the delicate art immersed with the handcraft.                                                                

 

        Looking backwards, I found myself lucky to encounter an amazing travel partner the first night in Bangkok. We walked probably two hours in total on the night streets of Bangkok, talking and exchanging experiences. It reminded me of a film named “Before sunrise”, where two people met in the train and decided to get off together and walk for the whole night before the sunrise. 

 

       The beauty of traveling alone consists in the wonders you will encounter, never knowing where fate is leading you, whom you are going to meet, when you are going to depart or what is in store for you. It’s all fate and chance events.

 

        We departed the next morning, me visiting the Grand Palace and then leaving for Krabi, him flying home.

 

        It was an impressive night, indeed.